Tales of Turning 24

August 11, 2009


First of all, HAPPY BIRTHDAY NORA (July 22nd), MAUREEN AND DAD (July 30th) and Kelly (July 31st)!!
I hope you all had spectacular birthdays this year.

As for my birthday, it started out a little shaky but was wonderful in the end. The night before my birthday was sleepless, interrupted by intermittent trips to my friend John’s disgusting latrine with persistent diarrhea and phone calls from home from loved ones who are used to the crappy network in my town and wanted to make sure they would be able to reach me. I have no complaints about the phone calls (thank you!) but the runs I could have done without.

Next, Kyle and I went to the bus station to catch a bus to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, where I was meeting up with some friends for my birthday. The best part was, Gail, one of my best friends who lives on the other side of the country (we joke that she lives in Sudan and I live in Kenya) was going to be in Addis as well, for medical. The bus ride took 8 hours when it should take about 5, due to traffic outside of Addis. We were just sitting in absolute bumper-to-bumper for 3 hours. Might I remind you that I have the runs on top of it. So I was sitting there anxiously, trying not to crap myself. You’re welcome for the details; you just have to read it, I have to live it. When we FINALLY get into Addis, our bus breaks down and we are all forced to get out in the middle of a busy street and find line taxis, called “Blue Donkeys”. They have specific routes so we had to find the right one to get to our hotel.

Luckily, when we arrived at the hotel, our friends had already reserved rooms and I am able to take my first hot shower in what seems like ages! It was just what I needed. Getting to the restaurant to meet everyone was a chore, as it was raining, but when we got there at about 8pm, they surprised me with a cake, roses, a bottle of champagne and two huge beer towers!! We were treating ourselves to dinner at the Beer Garden. I was so surprised and felt so loved. I really have made some amazing friends here. At least through the other volunteers; I am still working on making some real Ethiopian friends. There has been some progress on that front, details coming in the next blog.

So after an amazing dinner (I ate chicken! Yeah, CHICKEN! I wish you could comprehend how exciting that was), a few of us went out dancing with these VSO volunteers (a service organization kind of similar to Peace Corps based out of the UK. They can serve 6 month, 1 year, or 2 years stints). One of them is dating an Ethiopian woman who just happened to share the same birthday as me! Although for her calendar, the birthday is the 25th of Hamlay, which is the 11th month of their 13 month calendar.

Brief aside: I believe I have mentioned that the Ethiopian day begins as 6 o’clock so their time is 6 hours after the rest of the world’s time…convenient, I know. Additionally, they have their own calendar. The Ethiopian New Year is on, coincidentally enough, September 11th (Maura and Catherine, maybe Ethiopia is the place for you two. Your birthday is actually a celebration over here!). They have 13 months, the first twelve of which are all 30 days long and then the final month is only 5 days long (and no one gets paid for that month). Additionally, the year here is 2001, 8 years behind the rest of the world. Therefore, there is no easy mathematical way to translate the Egrarian calendar date from the Ethiopian calendar and vice versa. Sometimes people and offices will have calendars that have both dates, which are very helpful, but in day-to-day life it’s extremely complicated, which is why I basically ignore their calendar. Have I mentioned that Ethiopia is unique? Yeah, it’s a little annoyingly unique.

Moving along… So my birthday was a success and lots of fun. The following day I had plans to visit my host family in Ambo, but they were in Addis for a wedding. I was somewhat relieved because it was really cold and rainy and the last thing I wanted was to get on a bus. So instead, Kyle and I went to the movies where much to his dismay, the only showing of the new Harry Potter had already passed so we saw The Hangover instead. It was funny and a nice break from Ethiopia. There weren’t even any power outages at the movie theater like last time! Monday morning we went into the Peace Corps office to use internet and such. They have satellite internet so all the sites that the Ethiopian government blocks (such as my blog site) are accessible there! So I got to actually look at my blog for the first time since I’ve been here. You can all thank my mom for posting my entries and pictures on my censored behalf.

In the afternoon we went to Fitche, a small town about 2-3 hours north of Addis where Karen lives. The ride was beautiful, despite riding in a bus with a bunch of Ethiopians who honestly believe that they will catch diseases by having the windows open and many of whom were vomiting into plastic bags on account of their illogical misconception. When we arrived in Fitche, it was close to dark, there was no cell phone network, and we had no idea where Karen lives. After much asking around, we find a bajaj driver who thinks he knows where she lives. We get in the general area and continue asking and through a neighborhood effort, we are personally escorted to Karen’s door. This is an early indication of how wonderful the people in Fitche are…and the benefits of being the only white person living in a town. Karen is surprised and delighted to see us and welcomes us in saying, “I didn’t know if you brought slippers so I bought you some.” Ethiopians all have house shoes, these ugly plastic shoes imported from China and widely available in any town, necessary in order not to track mud and dirt into the home. Karen, the doll that she is, actually went out and bought Kyle and I a pair. Unfortunately for Kyle, the largest size she can find was like a Women’s 10. Ethiopians are tiny.

None of us was particularly hungry so we just sat in her cozy living room, catching up by candlelight (no power). Karen is such a wonderful person to be around. She has the warmest presence and makes you feel more comfortable and at peace just by being near her. It doesn’t hurt that she’s a therapist back in the States and is professional listener. That’s actually why we went to FItche, in addition to wanting to see her, because she is doing an art therapy program for orphan children in her town. Kyle and I are both interested in doing a similar program in our respective towns, so we wanted to check it out. Kyle wants to do the program with children, many orphans, from the rural area of his town. I am hoping to adapt the program to adults in the Dilla Prison. Her program was great. Doing art for kids here is extremely difficult, though, because it is just so foreign to them. Artistic expression, any kind of creativity is not encouraged here so one is ever challenged to think abstractly or even to just think for themselves. It’s one of the things that frustrates me the most about living here. So the kids didn’t always understand the instructions, they were often just drawing what the person next to them was drawing, but they were so happy to have real colors to use. Karen had crayons and colored pencils sent from the States and I am confident it was the first time any of those children had used them before. It is going to take time for them to feel comfortable expressing themselves through art, but I think it was already a success. And I think these are the programs that are going to change Ethiopians’ mentalities so that progress and innovation may be possible from within the country, rather than always initiated by international organizations. I can only hope.

So thank you family and friends for the calls, the cards, the presents, etc. Even though I am far away, I felt extremely loved for my birthday. More updates (hopefully) coming soon! Love and miss you all!

Oh, and I got bit by a dog…but I’m ok!